Like most creative people, designers have to clear their heads now and then. Raf Simons reduced his collection to the essentials of contemporary men's dressing. Even so, you would recognize the Raf silhouette anywhere; that's part of his power. In recent years he has acknowledged a more mature customer by paying close attention to cut, quality fabrics and details.
His spring collection also looked polished, if much more stripped down: the key points were the T-shirt top, the nylon plaid jacket and coat, and the uniform black trousers. The T-shirt might be in super-fine turquoise or melon-orange leather, or a sleeveless knit with a subtle flower detail. The classic plaids are tweaked by being cut on the bias or constructed on the diagonal. For the merest hint of adornment, a gold chain outlined the soles of the black shoes.
And note: with all the polish applied to these clear-headed basics, the attitude was youthful — more than in recent Simons shows.
I was puzzled by Kris Van Assche's repeated elements at Dior Homme — the liquid lines of the monochromatic suits and coats, the high-dome hats, the sheer white curtains of the backdrops. I don't mind when a designer sticks with a groove but in this instance the loose shapes and neutrals looked rehashed. And though Mr. Van Assche is proudly into craft, and his clothes have a certain detached stylishness, it's hard to see a real connection to how men dress nowadays.
Speaking of French reduction, Hermès looked spare and elegant — right down to those slim, shorty shorts presented by the designer Véronique Nichanian. A turtleneck and a pair of bathing-style shorts? I liked the genuine nonchalance. A lot of designers would wind up with a Cub Scout look or something with a militaristic cast, but I think Ms. Nichanian actually sees a guy putting on a turtleneck with his shorts and sandals to have a quick drink with friends.
In my review of the Paris men's shows in Thursday Styles, I'll have more to say about Raf Simons, Hermès, and the Lanvin shows, but I was impressed with the variety at Lanvin — not just in the range of styles; the guys looked individual, too.
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