2011年6月30日星期四

Fort Fire Dept. collects shoes for Bolivia

The Fort Saskatchewan Fire Department is something the Fort should be proud of. They have two trucks ready for donation to a poverty-stricken city in Bolivia, La Paz. However, the Fort should be even more proud of the elementary schools, who are donating school supplies and shoes to the families of La Paz.

La Paz is located in the North-West Portion of Bolivia and is believed to be one of the poorest places in South America. This is due to the low levels of education as well as corruption within the government. The Bolivia project team wanted to give more than trucks. The idea of supplies like the shoes and the school supplies would make a difference to the children.

When four of our own firefighters, Tim Morin, Murray Buchacher, Bill Lucas, and Peter Schmidt, head to Bolivia to train local volunteers on the use of the new fire trucks and equipment, including a full fire bunker and self contained breathing apparatus, they will also deliver the supplies.

"We thought bringing shoes and school supplies would have an immediate impact for the children and their families, stated Morin. "We need to fill a shipping container and we are on our way to doing that."

The group headed to James Mowat Elementary and Pope John VV111 on Tuesday and Wednesday. They even picked up donations from Mill Woods Christian school as well.

The community is invited to help out by donating gently used or new shoes, mens' sizes 0-9 and women's sizes 0-7. School supplies and cash donations are also needed. Donations can be dropped off at the Fire Hall or to Crystal Glass at 9918-103 street before the second week of September.

2011年6月28日星期二

Donation bin relocates from Walgreens to McDonald's

The purple donation bin for Big Brothers Big Sisters of Puget Sound has been relocated from Walgreens to McDonald's, 5526 E. Lake Sammamish Parkway S.E.

Like other bins throughout the region, the nonprofit organization accepts men's, women's and children's clothing, shoes, hats, linens, small draperies, purses, reusable household items and small appliances at the Issaquah location. Because the site is attended, donors can receive a tax-deductible receipt immediately.

Revenue from donated clothing helps support Big Brothers Big Sisters of Puget Sound's mentoring programs. A single bin lasts for 10 years and generates $8,666 in goods on average each year.

2011年6月26日星期日

Paris Men's: Peeling Down for Spring

Like most creative people, designers have to clear their heads now and then. Raf Simons reduced his collection to the essentials of contemporary men's dressing. Even so, you would recognize the Raf silhouette anywhere; that's part of his power. In recent years he has acknowledged a more mature customer by paying close attention to cut, quality fabrics and details.

His spring collection also looked polished, if much more stripped down: the key points were the T-shirt top, the nylon plaid jacket and coat, and the uniform black trousers. The T-shirt might be in super-fine turquoise or melon-orange leather, or a sleeveless knit with a subtle flower detail. The classic plaids are tweaked by being cut on the bias or constructed on the diagonal. For the merest hint of adornment, a gold chain outlined the soles of the black shoes.

And note: with all the polish applied to these clear-headed basics, the attitude was youthful — more than in recent Simons shows.

I was puzzled by Kris Van Assche's repeated elements at Dior Homme — the liquid lines of the monochromatic suits and coats, the high-dome hats, the sheer white curtains of the backdrops. I don't mind when a designer sticks with a groove but in this instance the loose shapes and neutrals looked rehashed. And though Mr. Van Assche is proudly into craft, and his clothes have a certain detached stylishness, it's hard to see a real connection to how men dress nowadays.

Speaking of French reduction, Hermès looked spare and elegant — right down to those slim, shorty shorts presented by the designer Véronique Nichanian. A turtleneck and a pair of bathing-style shorts? I liked the genuine nonchalance. A lot of designers would wind up with a Cub Scout look or something with a militaristic cast, but I think Ms. Nichanian actually sees a guy putting on a turtleneck with his shorts and sandals to have a quick drink with friends.

In my review of the Paris men's shows in Thursday Styles, I'll have more to say about Raf Simons, Hermès, and the Lanvin shows, but I was impressed with the variety at Lanvin — not just in the range of styles; the guys looked individual, too.

2011年6月22日星期三

Wimbledon 2011, Day 3: Six Things We Learned On Day Three

Though there will be fewer and fewer matches each successive day at The Championships, Wimbledon 2011, it's still not hard to learn at least a half-dozen things.  Here's what Wednesday's Day 3 action taught us:

1. Old ladies can play.  The days of women's tennis youth movement seem to be completely over.  Not only has there not been a teenage slam champion since Maria Sharapova won the 2006 US Open, the oldest end of the spectrum keeps playing better and better tennis.  The French Open final was contested between twenty-nine year-old Li Na and thirty year-old Francesca Schiavone, and the match of Wimbledon thus far was today's second round battle between thirty-one year old Venus Williams and FORTY year-old Kimiko Date-Krumm.

2. Young Brits will be able to play. British tennis, however, is still banking on youth.  Aside from the obvious contributions of Andy Murray, two young British women are looking more and more like forces to be reckoned with in the long term.  Heather Watson, the 2009 US Open Girls' Singles champion, put up a valiant fight before losing in three sets to Mathilde Johansson, a match she almost certainly would have won if not for an elbow injury.  Laura Robson, the 2008 Girls' Singles champion at Wimbledon, won her first main draw match at a grand slam on Day 3 with a 4-6, 7-6(4), 6-3 win over Angelique Kerber.  She next faces No. 5 Maria Sharapova, which should be a good learning experience for her if nothing else.  Robson hit a whopping 53 winners in her win over Kerber, so she should be able to win her share of points against Sharapova as well, one would assume.

3. Milos Raonic will not be the breakout star of Wimbledon 2011, which sucks.  No. 31 Milos Raonic, a young Canadian one of my ten players to watch in the men's field, suffered a leg injury early in his second round match against Gilles Muller, and was forced to retire while up a break at 3-2 in the first set.  With his powerful serve and hard, flat groundstrokes, Raonic could have very well made a name for himself by beating Rafael Nadal in the third round the two would have contested if Raonic hadn't been hurt.  Raonic could have become tennis' answer to Rory McIlroy with a win at Wimbledon 2011, but his star turn is now going to have to wait.

4. Juan Martin del Potro doesn't need shoes (or he has spares).  After dropping the first set tiebreak 9-7 to tiny Belgian Olivier Rochus, Juan Martin del Potro took off his enormous shoes and walked to the net, asking for the match to be called due to darkness. When the tournament referee agreed that play should be called, del Potro threw each of his shoes into the stands, throwing one clear over the top of the stadium and hitting an exiting fan in the head with the second.

5. It's best to be lucky and good.  Lucky Loser Simone Bolelli lost in the final round of qualifying, but has not dropped a set since, winning both his first round match against qualifier Martin Fischer and his second round match against No. 14 Stanislas Wawrinka in straight sets.  Bolelli's win made Wawrinka the highest seed thus far to be excused from the Gentlemen's Singles draw.  Two other Lucky Losers made it into the second round as well, with Grega Zemlja losing in four sets against No. 9 Gael Monfils, and American Ryan Harrison still awaiting his second round match against No. 7 David Ferrer.  On the women's side, Canadian Lucky Loser Stephanie Dubois pushed No. 11 Andrea Petkovic to three sets before falling as darkness descended on SW19.

6. We will have a rematch of a Wimbledon 2010 semifinal in the third round of Wimbledon 2011.  No. 2 Vera Zvonareva and No. 32 Tsvetana Pironkova both won the necessary two matches to set up a rematch of their thrilling semifinal from last year in the third round of this year's tournament.  Pironkova has been the sharper of the two so far in this event, though has faced considerably inferior competition.  It should be a good one.

2011年6月20日星期一

Milan designers tip hat to summer elegance

MILAN— With a tip of the hat — raffia that is — Milan designers salute old-style summer elegance, as they preview next year's warm weather styles.

The breezy brimmed straw hat has dominated the current menswear fashion week, making it the symbol for the romantic refined look designers propose from beach resort to pool side.

The latest in the series of those who have reinvented the vintage head cover, including Dolce and Gabbana and Ferragamo, is Kean Etro, who previewed his collection Monday.

Into the third day of Milan preview shows, the looks have been tried-and-true traditional, with occasional outbursts of bold color and eccentric styles by such mavens as Donatella Versace and Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton.

GUCCI

The latest Gucci collection is all about aristocrats, dandies and artists gathered in the haven of a posh gentlemen's club, playing bridge and exchanging eccentric views.

The wardrobe of a member of the Gucci club has its sporty moment by day, and refined edge by night. The overall mood of the latest Gucci collection presented Monday is of innate elegance.

By day, the Gucci gentleman is into top drawer sportswear from the Equestrian theme with suede padding on trousers and shirts, jockey jackets, crimson linings and saddle stitching, to the micro-quilted fencing jackets and the wide golf trousers complete with elegant pleats.

At night, he is at his most attractive — and he knows it. Dressed in a black tuxedo jacket paired with Prince of Wales plaid trousers and wearing a cocky bow tie and signature Gucci loafers, he needs no I.D. to get in wherever the party is.

At Gucci, knitwear, which makes a big comeback during the current week of preview showings for next year's spring and summer, is either oversized and woven in special hand-crafted fibers, or super slim in ribbed silk, as sexy as underwear.

VERSACE

Donatella Versace started out softly with soothing blue and beige summer suits with wide trousers and double-breasted jackets, worn with matching two-tone loafers. But the cool look was only a summer mirage.

As soon as the beat of the disco music got going at the menswear show, Versace was back to her old favorites: black leather, gold studs, buckles and straps all part of her trademark tight-fitting sexy styles.

To heat things up for next year's spring and summer Versace adds flashes of bright color, combining such unlikely palette mates as fuchsia pink for a jacket with tangerine orange for the "matching" trousers. To boot, the accompanying sandals were in apple green leather.

The tighter the look, the more buckles Versace used to hold the outfit together culminating in a cobalt blue trouser with buckle straps replacing seams on a hip hugging pair of pants. These pants were paired with a leather jacket closed with buckles not buttons.

Studs decorated anything from shirts to shoes to leather jackets. One black bomber jacket featured a swirling pattern of golden studs across the front and back.

But Versace crossed all conventional boundaries in a series of silk outfits with Baroque patterns gleaned from the Versace archives, where among other items, a black and blue silk shirt is combined with the same print trousers to look like a jumpsuit.

The Versace patterns were also used for over-the-top poolside outfits with an extra large terry cloth robe and matching swim trunks.

D&G

The designing duo Dolce and Gabbana saluted the versatile foulard in the spring/summer 2012 menswear collection for their second line, D&G.

Foulards, often made of silk, can be used as a head covering, worn around the neck, as a belt, or simply tucked in a pocket, like a handkerchief.

In the D&G collection, the foulard, appearing in half a dozen patterns, formed the defining element of everything from blazers to shirts, from swim trunks to trousers.

The theme was a great occasion to deconstruct clothes, and restitch them with a colorful silk cloth to create a contrast of fabrics.

Tapered silk trousers had a denim waistline. The back of a denim shirt was a large foulard print — great ventilation on hot days. Another jean shirt had silken sleeves.

___MILAN (AP) — With a tip of the hat — raffia that is — Milan designers salute old-style summer elegance, as they preview next year's warm weather styles.

The breezy brimmed straw hat has dominated the current menswear fashion week, making it the symbol for the romantic refined look designers propose from beach resort to pool side.

The latest in the series of those who have reinvented the vintage head cover, including Dolce and Gabbana and Ferragamo, is Kean Etro, who previewed his collection Monday.

Into the third day of Milan preview shows, the looks have been tried-and-true traditional, with occasional outbursts of bold color and eccentric styles by such mavens as Donatella Versace and Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton.

GUCCI

The latest Gucci collection is all about aristocrats, dandies and artists gathered in the haven of a posh gentlemen's club, playing bridge and exchanging eccentric views.

The wardrobe of a member of the Gucci club has its sporty moment by day, and refined edge by night. The overall mood of the latest Gucci collection presented Monday is of innate elegance.

By day, the Gucci gentleman is into top drawer sportswear from the Equestrian theme with suede padding on trousers and shirts, jockey jackets, crimson linings and saddle stitching, to the micro-quilted fencing jackets and the wide golf trousers complete with elegant pleats.

At night, he is at his most attractive — and he knows it. Dressed in a black tuxedo jacket paired with Prince of Wales plaid trousers and wearing a cocky bow tie and signature Gucci loafers, he needs no I.D. to get in wherever the party is.

At Gucci, knitwear, which makes a big comeback during the current week of preview showings for next year's spring and summer, is either oversized and woven in special hand-crafted fibers, or super slim in ribbed silk, as sexy as underwear.

VERSACE

Donatella Versace started out softly with soothing blue and beige summer suits with wide trousers and double-breasted jackets, worn with matching two-tone loafers. But the cool look was only a summer mirage.

As soon as the beat of the disco music got going at the menswear show, Versace was back to her old favorites: black leather, gold studs, buckles and straps all part of her trademark tight-fitting sexy styles.

To heat things up for next year's spring and summer Versace adds flashes of bright color, combining such unlikely palette mates as fuchsia pink for a jacket with tangerine orange for the "matching" trousers. To boot, the accompanying sandals were in apple green leather.

The tighter the look, the more buckles Versace used to hold the outfit together culminating in a cobalt blue trouser with buckle straps replacing seams on a hip hugging pair of pants. These pants were paired with a leather jacket closed with buckles not buttons.

Studs decorated anything from shirts to shoes to leather jackets. One black bomber jacket featured a swirling pattern of golden studs across the front and back.

But Versace crossed all conventional boundaries in a series of silk outfits with Baroque patterns gleaned from the Versace archives, where among other items, a black and blue silk shirt is combined with the same print trousers to look like a jumpsuit.

The Versace patterns were also used for over-the-top poolside outfits with an extra large terry cloth robe and matching swim trunks.

D&G

The designing duo Dolce and Gabbana saluted the versatile foulard in the spring/summer 2012 menswear collection for their second line, D&G.

Foulards, often made of silk, can be used as a head covering, worn around the neck, as a belt, or simply tucked in a pocket, like a handkerchief.

In the D&G collection, the foulard, appearing in half a dozen patterns, formed the defining element of everything from blazers to shirts, from swim trunks to trousers.

The theme was a great occasion to deconstruct clothes, and restitch them with a colorful silk cloth to create a contrast of fabrics.

Tapered silk trousers had a denim waistline. The back of a denim shirt was a large foulard print — great ventilation on hot days. Another jean shirt had silken sleeves.

___MILAN (AP) — With a tip of the hat — raffia that is — Milan designers salute old-style summer elegance, as they preview next year's warm weather styles.

The breezy brimmed straw hat has dominated the current menswear fashion week, making it the symbol for the romantic refined look designers propose from beach resort to pool side.

The latest in the series of those who have reinvented the vintage head cover, including Dolce and Gabbana and Ferragamo, is Kean Etro, who previewed his collection Monday.

Into the third day of Milan preview shows, the looks have been tried-and-true traditional, with occasional outbursts of bold color and eccentric styles by such mavens as Donatella Versace and Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton.

GUCCI

The latest Gucci collection is all about aristocrats, dandies and artists gathered in the haven of a posh gentlemen's club, playing bridge and exchanging eccentric views.

The wardrobe of a member of the Gucci club has its sporty moment by day, and refined edge by night. The overall mood of the latest Gucci collection presented Monday is of innate elegance.

By day, the Gucci gentleman is into top drawer sportswear from the Equestrian theme with suede padding on trousers and shirts, jockey jackets, crimson linings and saddle stitching, to the micro-quilted fencing jackets and the wide golf trousers complete with elegant pleats.

At night, he is at his most attractive — and he knows it. Dressed in a black tuxedo jacket paired with Prince of Wales plaid trousers and wearing a cocky bow tie and signature Gucci loafers, he needs no I.D. to get in wherever the party is.

At Gucci, knitwear, which makes a big comeback during the current week of preview showings for next year's spring and summer, is either oversized and woven in special hand-crafted fibers, or super slim in ribbed silk, as sexy as underwear.

VERSACE

Donatella Versace started out softly with soothing blue and beige summer suits with wide trousers and double-breasted jackets, worn with matching two-tone loafers. But the cool look was only a summer mirage.

As soon as the beat of the disco music got going at the menswear show, Versace was back to her old favorites: black leather, gold studs, buckles and straps all part of her trademark tight-fitting sexy styles.

To heat things up for next year's spring and summer Versace adds flashes of bright color, combining such unlikely palette mates as fuchsia pink for a jacket with tangerine orange for the "matching" trousers. To boot, the accompanying sandals were in apple green leather.

The tighter the look, the more buckles Versace used to hold the outfit together culminating in a cobalt blue trouser with buckle straps replacing seams on a hip hugging pair of pants. These pants were paired with a leather jacket closed with buckles not buttons.

Studs decorated anything from shirts to shoes to leather jackets. One black bomber jacket featured a swirling pattern of golden studs across the front and back.

But Versace crossed all conventional boundaries in a series of silk outfits with Baroque patterns gleaned from the Versace archives, where among other items, a black and blue silk shirt is combined with the same print trousers to look like a jumpsuit.

The Versace patterns were also used for over-the-top poolside outfits with an extra large terry cloth robe and matching swim trunks.

D&G

The designing duo Dolce and Gabbana saluted the versatile foulard in the spring/summer 2012 menswear collection for their second line, D&G.

Foulards, often made of silk, can be used as a head covering, worn around the neck, as a belt, or simply tucked in a pocket, like a handkerchief.

In the D&G collection, the foulard, appearing in half a dozen patterns, formed the defining element of everything from blazers to shirts, from swim trunks to trousers.

The theme was a great occasion to deconstruct clothes, and restitch them with a colorful silk cloth to create a contrast of fabrics.

Tapered silk trousers had a denim waistline. The back of a denim shirt was a large foulard print — great ventilation on hot days. Another jean shirt had silken sleeves.

___MILAN (AP) — With a tip of the hat — raffia that is — Milan designers salute old-style summer elegance, as they preview next year's warm weather styles.

The breezy brimmed straw hat has dominated the current menswear fashion week, making it the symbol for the romantic refined look designers propose from beach resort to pool side.

The latest in the series of those who have reinvented the vintage head cover, including Dolce and Gabbana and Ferragamo, is Kean Etro, who previewed his collection Monday.

Into the third day of Milan preview shows, the looks have been tried-and-true traditional, with occasional outbursts of bold color and eccentric styles by such mavens as Donatella Versace and Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton.

GUCCI

The latest Gucci collection is all about aristocrats, dandies and artists gathered in the haven of a posh gentlemen's club, playing bridge and exchanging eccentric views.

The wardrobe of a member of the Gucci club has its sporty moment by day, and refined edge by night. The overall mood of the latest Gucci collection presented Monday is of innate elegance.

By day, the Gucci gentleman is into top drawer sportswear from the Equestrian theme with suede padding on trousers and shirts, jockey jackets, crimson linings and saddle stitching, to the micro-quilted fencing jackets and the wide golf trousers complete with elegant pleats.

At night, he is at his most attractive — and he knows it. Dressed in a black tuxedo jacket paired with Prince of Wales plaid trousers and wearing a cocky bow tie and signature Gucci loafers, he needs no I.D. to get in wherever the party is.

At Gucci, knitwear, which makes a big comeback during the current week of preview showings for next year's spring and summer, is either oversized and woven in special hand-crafted fibers, or super slim in ribbed silk, as sexy as underwear.

2011年6月16日星期四

Blogger Joshua Katcher, Novacas Launch Vegan Men’s Shoes

Novacas, Brave GentleMan, Joshua Katcher, vegan shoes, vegan fashion, eco-fashion, sustainable fashion, green fashion, ethical fashion, sustainable style
With its rugged, slicked-back aesthetic and stoic self-assuredness, the Novacas for Brave GentleMan shoe collection underscores one indubitable fact: It’s never been manlier to be vegan. A collaboration between blogger Joshua Katcher of The Discerning Brute and the Portugal-based vegan footwear label, the faux-leather boots and oxfords are exclusive to Brave GentleMan, Katcher’s newly launched online store.

Novacas, Brave GentleMan, Joshua Katcher, vegan shoes, vegan fashion, eco-fashion, sustainable fashion, green fashion, ethical fashion, sustainable style

BRAVE AND GENTLE

Draw a veil on the archetype of the preening metrosexual in khakis. Testosterone, as we say in fashion, is having a moment. “I was inspired by classic men’s shoes that have stood the test of time and are stylistically versatile,” Katcher tells Ecouterre. “The names of the shoes, ‘Worker,’ ‘Defender,’ and ‘Mastermind,’ call upon traditional roles that men take pride in, and that also inspire men to embrace sustainability and guardianship as very masculine, brave, and necessary work that needs to be done.

But while most cultural notions of masculinity are based in violence and conquest, the new breed of brawny preaches compassion over barbarism. “Leather as a textile, even before the tanning process, is associated with one of the most environmentally devastating industries on the planet: livestock production,” says Katcher. “The UN has again and again called out this industry for being a major contributor to the worst environmental problems, especially climate change.”
With sustainably made alternatives that are just as robust as animal hide, Katcher wants to flex vegan leather’s potential.

2011年6月14日星期二

Men's fashion: A look at the rapid change

It is destination India for a whole lot of international brands, and making that unbelievable leap is the increase in the number of brands that are exclusively for men.

“The Indian market for men’s fashion has been growing at such a rapid speed that it would be silly to underestimate it,” points out Sonal Bhatia, the brand manager of Genesis Luxury.

DNA, therefore, invited her to help dissect the customer here to understand how fast we may be growing.

They know it all

“You will be surprised to see how particular Indian men have become about the brands that they sport. One could credit the increased levels of awareness to the fact that Indians are travelling a lot more today than we ever did. We are also so connected to the world that knowledge is available at the click of a button,” says Bhatia. So there is no question of fashion stores in India housing anything last season anymore.

“Travel does include shopping, of course, but there are a lot of people who prefer to be well-prepared for their travel. For instance, if one is attending a business meeting abroad, it leaves very little time for shopping after travelling half way across the world. It really makes more sense to be prepared and if an individual has the option of choosing from the best, right at home, then why not,” she questions.

Best fit

“The various men’s brands available here do have a crossover in terms of clientele of course, but on a large scale — men know exactly which brand gives them the kind of fit,” says Bhatia.

“For instance,” she explains, “While Canali attracts men who hold rather senior positions in the business world, Etro caters to men who like to make a bold statement. And Paul Smith on the other hand caters to the younger crowd in terms of fabric, fit and colours.” However, the fact that there is something for everyone and for every occasion is what really matters.

Colour palette

Recent trends have revealed that the south Indian male is bold, at least in terms of the colours he opts for on his outfit. “We had picked up a couple of shirts and jackets in colours that you would not describe as somber. They were bold and quite crazy too, and were initially put up as window pieces. To our surprise, we sold quite a few of them. Men in this city are going bold like never before. You will see a lot of people sporting red shoes and funky, bright belts. In fact, in Bangalore, these brands end up selling more number of pink shirts and hardly any of them in blue. It shows that men are getting a lot more experimental with their dressing,” explains Bhatia.

Would there be colours that people here would not dare to touch? Bhatia says, “One colour that does not seem to do work in Bangalore is turquoise blue. T-shirts in World Cup colours did well, but not otherwise.”

One for the occasion

Another interesting observation is the fact that men in the city tend to buy formal outfits, not for the regular business meeting, but for an occasion — a wedding, or a brunch or even just a casual do.

“In Bangalore, it is more about making a fashion statement. It may not have to do with a specific brand as such, but it is about being well turned out. It is important for brands to bring in a collection that is city specific too. For instance, heavy sweaters would not work here. Instead, light jackets, made out of mixed fabrics like maybe wool and silk, are what have been quite a hit here. People here are not loud or brash with their dressing, instead, they are understated and yet classy,” says Bhatia.

2011年6月12日星期日

Shirts fly as men seek tight fits, colours � even pinks

You are what shirt you wear.
Call the cliche if you want, but it’s the most defining line in men’s fashion in the country today. Men’s apparel, the segment hit the hardest during the downturn, is doing well again. And it’s got as much to do with economic revival as with the changing consumer preferences — particularly in shirts.
For one, shirts, once a modest upper body garment, don’t bunch up anymore but hang suavely from shoulder to waist as men rebuild their wardrobes.
Men like it tight, say retailers. Provogue, SKNL, Reliance, Bestseller and Nautica are all stocking more slim or tight-fit shirts as male shoppers are trading down on sizes and demanding shirts that hug and fit more than just cover. The trend, they say, has been in the making for four or five years, but has become more pronounced now.
The Indian shirt has evolved from being a standard loose piece of clothing to a market that runs in many micro-segments, says Arun Sirdeshmukh, chief executive officer, Reliance Trends, the apparel division of Reliance Retail. “First there was a shirt that you wore to work and possibly went to a party wearing the same or same kind of shirt. Now, men are splitting their wardrobes as per occasion and time.”
“Men are either looking for slim fit shirts or trading down on size. In the ratio of size, there clearly is a skew towards moving left,” says Sirdeshmukh.
Nikhil Chaturvedi, managing director, Provogue, concurs, pointing to the growing trend of men frequenting gyms and turning fitness conscious.
So much so, an increasing number of male shoppers have started demanding lean bottoms, too.
“I am happy to wear a well-fitted shirt because it really shows my physique the way it is. Why can’t we have more narrow fits in pants that brands like Zara and United Colours of Benetton offer?” asks Rajiv Seth, a media professional in Mumbai.
Logical, says Sirdeshmukh, who has been in the apparel industry for two decades and played a key role in launching shirt brands like Louis Philippe and Urbana. “If you notice, men are increasingly getting comfortable in tight shirts, tight pants and even pointed shoes. They like the slimmer, leaner look.”
Aiding this shift is the influx of international mens’ apparel brands over the last year or so.
Arvind Lifestyle, which sells the Arrow and US Polo brands of menswear, launched two international brands — Gant and Izod — last year. Among others, SKNL formed a joint venture with international men’s apparel brand DKNY; Reliance Retail tied up with luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna to expand the latter’s stores in India; Spain’s Inditex Group made its India entry with brand Zara through Tata’s Trent Ltd; and premium menswear brand Nautica reentered India last year through Planet Retail.
David von Platen, creative director at SKNL, which owns shirt brands Reid & Taylor, Belmonte, Alfred Dunhill and Stephen Brothers, also points to changes in collars, patterns and textures, too. “Indian men are looking for fabrics that are finer and lighter. They are very fashion conscious now.”
Vineet Gautam, country head, Bestseller India says men are willing to experiment with their shirts now. They are willing to try out different colours, patterns, collars and cuffs. “For example, the trend is moving away from solid colours to micro-checks, a combination of plain with contrasting collars. A little bit of fashion is becoming acceptable at workplaces.”
Indeed, detailing in shirts has become so eminent now that depending on the segment, the shape of collar, pockets and cuffs change, says Chaturvedi of Provogue.
Not surprisingly, most retailers now feel the need to classify shirts within segments — corporate wear, pub wear, suits, casuals, to name some.
Shirts fly as men seek tight fits, colours — even pinks
The most defining change, though, has had to do with colour. At least five major retailers told DNA they couldn’t afford to run out of stock in tones of purple or lilac.
Many are also giving in to the temptation of colours forbidden till not so long ago, such as pink, once considered effeminate.
“They want to wear that light shade of pink. It is definitely in demand,” says Sirdeshmukh of Reliance.
Sundeep Malhotra, chief executive officer of online retail property HomeShop18 says most customers on his site are buying shirts in purple, vine, pink or metallic grey colours, though staple blues and whites still make up 40% of the industry sales.
SKNL’s von Platen, however, says white has never quite picked up in India. “In the US, 60% of shirts sold are whites. In India, we wear more colours and we do not wear suits as much.”
MP Ramachandran, chairman, Jyothy Laboratories, which makes the Ujala brand of fabric whitener (Ujala has 72% market share in India), vouches for this. “Fabric whitener category is not growing, people are not wearing as much white. They are wearing more colourful clothes.”
A Robert Kennedy song appears to sum it up best. “I never loved the whites. I never loved the whites. They go so dirty and never stayed clean… But in my life there is something called colour. But best of all, Pink Shirt I love you,” goes the number.

In Motion: 'Clown Shoes' Are No Joke

If you decide to take a pair of Hokas running shoes for a jog, be prepared for some curious stares.

After all, the Hokas are known among some runners as "the clown shoes" or "moon boots." And they do look a tad silly. While most standard running shoes have a sole about 24 millimeters (less than an inch) high in the heel and 12 millimeters in the toe, the Hoka puts a full 40 millimeters (more than 1.5 inches) of cushioning between your foot and the ground.

Yet as funny as they look, Hokas are also developing a strong and ever-growing following. The French-designed shoes hit U.S. shelves just last year, and already a number of top athletes have had success in them. Elite distance runner Karl Meltzer, who is now sponsored by Hoka, went through seven pairs to run the 2,064-mile Pony Express Trail in 40 days last year. Another top runner, Dave Mackey, won the Miwok 100K trail race this May while wearing Hokas.

As a distance runner, I couldn't help being intrigued by Hokas. I raced the White River 50 Mile Endurance Run last July in New Balance WT100s (the 100s are discontinued; here are the 101s), a lightweight shoe with little sole separating the foot from the trail, and loved them. The ample cushioning of the Hokas seemed the exact opposite. I knew I needed to give them a whirl firsthand.

I enlisted Eric Sach as my Hoka guide. Sach owns The Balanced Athlete, a running store in Renton, and is the only retailer in the Pacific Northwest to carry the Hokas. Since first trying the innovative footwear last summer, Sach had become, unofficially, the local Hoka guru. 

On a misty Tuesday morning, Sach and I met at the Red Town Trailhead at Cougar Mountain. He loaned me a sample pair of men's size 9 Hokas. (Being able to fit into a standard sample size, I've learned, can be quite the advantage when trying out running shoes.) For the next hour, Sach and I ran.

As we traversed up and down the trails of Cougar, Sach told me about his introduction to the Hokas. A self-professed gear geek and longtime runner, Sach takes pleasure in reading about the running industry's latest science, studies and trends. He grew up running around the neighborhoods and trails of Orange County, CA, and completed his first marathon when he was just 12. At an age when most of us complained when the soccer coach made us do extra laps, Sach was running more than 100 miles each week.

After college at the University of Oregon, Sach moved to Seattle and took a job at the Seattle Running Company on Capitol Hill. (It is now a Fleet Feet Sports store.) There, he learned that he loved the challenge of matching runners with the shoes and gear that fit them best.

"Each person is a new puzzle and challenge for me," Sach said.

In 2006, Sach decided to break out on his own. He opened The Balanced Athlete in Kent, and it wasn't long before the store began to grow out of that retail space. Last year, Sach moved the store to Renton.

Sach prides himself on staying on top of the latest running trends and research, and so he took a keen interest in learning about Hokas. Last August, a Hoka representative brought the shoes by his store. At first, Sach thought they looked a bit silly, but as he learned more about the shoes' features, he became intrigued. Sach decided to take the Hokas to the mountains.

Since Sach and The Balanced Athlete staff help run an aid station during the annual Cascade Crest 100 Mile Race, Sach figured he'd use the opportunity give the shoes a test run. While waiting for racers, he took them for a jaunt five miles out and back from the aid station. Immediately, Sach loved the way he moved in Hokas.

"These felt different than any running shoe I'd tried," Sach said. "I thought, 'These are revolutionary shoes.' They're like shaped skis or suspension brakes. They felt so cool."

Though Sach knew at once that he liked Hokas, it took him a little longer to process why. He has since determined that in Hokas, he doesn't have to stare down at his feet to avoid tripping on the trail. While most running shoes have a bottom sole shape that curves in at the arch, Hokas look like a long oval, giving runners 30 percent more surface area to grip terrain. And since the ample cushioning protects feet from roots and rocks, Sach found he could fly downhill without worrying about dodging obstacles.

During this week's outing at Cougar Mountain, I was curious to learn if I'd share Sach's love for the Hokas. As we started jogging up the trail from the parking lot, the first thing I noticed was how light the shoes were. While Hokas look large, clunky, and awkward (hence the nickname "clown shoes"), they feel just the opposite. The French designers utilized a super-lightweight material in the sole, meaning the Hokas weigh in at just 9 ounces–less than most traditional running shoes.

I found Sach's observations on the ease of running in Hokas also rang true. The wide surface area and padding made it easy to run on technical terrain. Since the heel is the same height as the toe, the Hoka encourages running with the entire foot. On uphill slopes, that means that runners are less likely to get up on their forefoot, and the resulting flatter foot strike can help protect some from common plantar fascia irritation.

Sach warned me that like any new footwear, Hokas aren't for everybody and require an adjustment period. A new Hoka user shouldn't go out and run a marathon in them, as the shape and design means runners will likely use slightly different muscles in them. The super soft sole means the foot muscles must work harder, Sach said. Indeed, my feet felt a bit sore the evening of our 60-minute run.
Sach also doesn't advocate running exclusively in Hokas. He uses his pair regularly–and even raced the Chuckanut 50K in them–but he still uses more traditional running shoes.

"The Hokas are simply another shoe in the arsenal of shoe options runners have," Sach said.

Right now, The Balanced Athlete is the only store in Washington to carry Hokas. They don't come cheap, at $170 a pair. (Sach said the company claims the shoes last 700 miles, as compared to 300 to 400 for most running shoes, making the higher price tag more palatable.) Many running stores are reluctant to carry such a pricey and still untested item.

"Hokas are still relatively unknown," Sach agreed.

Even so, Sach said he can't keep enough Hokas in stock, as he sells out as soon as he receives a new shipment. And when runners show up at The Balanced Athlete and take Hokas for a test run, they usually come back with a smile on their face, Sach said.

"They just feel good," Sach said.

And my personal verdict on the Hokas? Though I didn't expect to say this before running with Sach, I now plan to visit The Balanced Athlete and buy a pair. I finished our jog pleasantly surprised by how good the Hokas felt. Like Sach, I don't think I'd ever run exclusively in Hokas, but they'd be a great addition to my running shoe rotation. I'm betting the Hokas would work my foot and leg muscles in slightly different ways, changing around the physical stresses that come with running.

Of course, I'm basing my analysis on a single hourlong run. The true test will come, I'm sure, after I log more miles in the Hokas. If I'm like Sach, though, I'll continue to embrace the clown shoes–no matter how silly they may look.

2011年6月7日星期二

TOMS Adds Sunglassses to Products

After weeks of anticipation, TOMS Shoes has finally unveiled their new One for One product: sunglasses!

In case you don't know about TOMS or their One for One program, the idea is this. For every one purchase you make, they will also donate to a person in need. They started with shoes in a small town in Argentina and have now given more than a million pairs of shoes away. They sell flat shoes, wedge shoes, men's shoes, women's shoes and kid's shoes.

Why shoes? According to their website, three simple reasons: disease, injury and education. In many developing countries, diseases come from the dirt and earth. Bacteria can transfer through the skin on bare feet. This leads to the second point, which is injury. For most of us, if we get a cut on our foot, we can clean it, put on a bandage and some shoes and it heals quickly. For children without shoes, a cut can lead to further infection which shoes can help prevent. Lastly, most of the time shoes are a required part of the school uniform and without them, these kids can get any type of education.

They also started "A Day Without Shoes." This day is dedicated to walking a mile in someone else's bare feet, to get a small taste of what children and adults around the world live with every day.

Today, however, TOMS became more than just a shoe company. According to founder Blake Mycoskie, they are now a One for One company.

In the video below, the decision to move into eyewear is laid out. With the recent decision by the UN to make the internet a basic human right, wouldn't it only seem logical that sight would also be a fundamental right? Thanks to TOMS, hopefully, millions of people can be given the gift of sight.

So why glasses? Because more that 250 million people in the world are unnecessarily blind. With just the help of eyeglasses, this problem could be cured. There is an immediate impact. Also, because a large majority of those affected by curable blindness are women.

For every pair of new TOMS sunglasses that are purchased, one pair of eyeglasses or one sight-saving surgery will be given to someone who needs them in Nepal.

2011年6月2日星期四

Mad Men's fashion mavens: get the look

Fashion types like to describe a stylish woman or man as being ''effortlessly chic,'' but Janie Bryant knows that's a lie.

Bryant, the award-winning costume designer who makes Betty Draper look so icily perfect, Joan Holloway so sexy and Don Draper so well-groomed and in control on the TV series Mad Men, says looking great takes effort — whether you are dressing characters for a show or getting yourself ready for an event.

And those who pull it off don't just wear the latest designer collection or follow the trends — they've learned what flatters their figure and coloring, what works for the occasion, and what hairstyle, makeup and accessories are needed to make the difference between ho-hum and woo-hoo, she says.Bryant has had time to think about this, as Mad Men is between seasons.

In the meantime, she's become a Maidenform pitchwoman, sold her designs on QVC and penned a book, The Fashion File.

Why is it that we're still so obsessed with the 1960s — the era Mad Men is set in?

From a fashion perspective, ''it is such a classic and elegant period,'' Bryant says. ''The shapes are still relevant today because they're figure-flattering.''

It's also a response to how casual society has become, she says. ''The art of dressing up has been lost for the past 10 to 20 years, and I think people want to learn about that,'' she says. ''People are hungering for knowledge on how to dress up. When you walk out of the house looking great, you feel so much better. You can conquer the world.''

Some of the 1960s elements that women are responding to and that Bryant loves are the sheath dress, pearl necklaces, hats, high heels and matching handbags to shoes.

She says that it's nice to remember the fashion rules as they once existed — and to break them if you want to. ''I used to not wear white after Labor Day and now I love it because it so contrasts with the season,'' she says.

Rules she's more careful to consider are those that relate to fit and body type. ''You should know where the waist seam should hit, where a princess seam fits, how short a skirt should be, your bra size.''

Find a good tailor or seamstress and your clothes will flatter you, she says. ''It's hard for things to fit right off the rack,'' she says.

Once the fit of your clothes is right, personalize your style. In Bryant's case, that means incorporating such vintage accessories as rings, bracelets, scarves, hats and handbags.

And don't feel like you have to dress the same way all the time, she says. Bryant varies her look, depending on where she is, but regardless, she likes to mix ''a little romance with a little bit of edge.

''In Los Angeles, she dresses ''more bohemian,'' in New York, ''a little more sophisticated.''She also likes to go along with fashion's romps through the decades, wearing everything from flapper-influenced 1920s gowns or hippie chic from the 1970s.

While Bryant admits that one of her favorite things to do is dress up and adapt to new environs, she knows not everyone agrees.For those who want to try to break out of a style rut, take baby steps. Step outside of your comfort zone simply by trying on different pieces and silhouettes in a store. Or play dress-up with what you already own, creating outfits for various occasions.

''If you're on a budget, shop in your closet,'' she says. ''Make an investment in time.''
1960s styles for modern wardrobes

In Fashion File: Advice, Tips and Inspiration from the Costumer Designer of Mad Men, Janie Bryant talks about how to adapt 1960s style to current wardrobes. Here are some of her picks:

The sexy sheath: This body-skimming dress hugs the bust and hips and is ideal on hourglass figures.

Cigarette pants: Preferably in black, these flat-front, slim-cut pants that taper at the ankle are more elegant and wearable than capris.

A shirtwaist dress: Choose a classic tailored style with a nipped waist and full skirt.\

A twin set: A cashmere shell and matching cardigan are day-wear essentials.

A string of pearls: Jackie Kennedy often wore a luminous pearl necklace, and many women owned them in varying lengths and styles. Brooches, too, were an accessory staple for sweaters, jackets and dresses.