2011年8月30日星期二

Rebecca Minkoff Adds Jewelry, Eyewear and More

Rebecca Minkoff will expand beyond handbags for the spring season, adding jewelry, eyewear, cold weather scarves and more shoes to her repertoire, WWD reports.

Making their debut at the designer's spring runway show on September 12 during Fashion Week, the new lines includes six categories of jewelry retailing between $50-$350, as well as eight sunglasses styles priced between $125-$250, and a doubling of footwear styles to 50 for spring.

“I love mixed hardware. There's a lot of the two-tone effect, so she doesn't have to worry about mixing and matching," Minkoff told WWD.

The first images of the new goods reveal woven-leather cuffs, studded and clear-plastic shades, and a new python-print wooden wedge sandal.

2011年8月29日星期一

Balancing cool fall fashion and sultry summer style

By the time September rolls around, many are ready to jump into their new fall clothes, but it's often too warm to wear them. Finding ways to keep rocking your summer wardrobe while updating it with a few fall items can refresh your whole closet.

"[The] cocoon sweater is the ultimate layering piece when transitioning from summer to fall. Wear it now over a tank and over another sweater when the temperatures drop," recommends Jennifer Bayley, a spokesperson for Express.

Shorts are also on tap and strutted down many fall runways. Try out new, heavier weight options, or extend the life of summer staples such as black and denim shorts. Denim cut-offs take to fall by swapping out the T-shirt, bare legs and chunky sandals for a lightweight open weave sweater, tights and a pair of platform wedge-heeled shoes or booties.

"Shorts offer the perfect opportunity to take advantage of the trend in patterned tights - stripes, burn outs, and textured tights all add a new dimension to legs as you transition into fall dressing," says Bayley.

You can also make summer's black dressy shorts do double duty by outfitting them with a silky blouse, a dressy jacket, block-heeled pumps and tights for work. For a more casual look, keep the shorts and tights but sub in a sweater, denim or leather jacket and switch your pumps for fashion boots until the snow flies.

Lace, floral and sheer blouses and dresses are among the many other must-haves that can be layered to go the distance from summer into fall.

"I recommend wearing silk tops and chiffon dresses for late summer nights and then layering them over super-thin sculpted jersey tops in cooler fall weather," says Lubov Azria, chief creative officer at BCBG Max Azria Group.

Adding tops and accessories in fall colours such as red, violet, wine, grey, orange and green will also give your wardrobe a nudge forward.

"Try a rich red or jewel tone, like port or Tahiti blue, to introduce the fall mood. Wear them now, with lighter accessories and sandals, and later with suede boots and leather cuff bracelets," suggests Azria.

Clothes, scarves, bags and shoes with snake print and wild cat patterns will also keep you a step ahead of fall.

"Animal prints and especially leopard motifs are very strong fall trends that you can start wearing right now. A lightweight animal print tunic, dress or top is the perfect go-to pattern to get you through late summer into early winter," says Jillian Zrihen, a spokesperson for Foxy Jeans.

2011年8月25日星期四

Barneys Warehouse Sale: Starting Tomorrow Morning

Everyone knows what a big deal the Barneys Warehouse Sale is. I saw it advertised in my elevator, on the little screen. On my WORK ELEVATOR, people! Obviously, the building does not want us to work. They want us to go to Barneys and shop. I’ll probably be missing it this year, but you shouldn’t. One of the biggest reasons you shouldn’t miss it is because of the legendary shoes that will be there.
Witness, above, the Kirkwood Rodarte wedge that will set you apart from most everyone in the world, except those who can afford it at full price for $2790 or who are fast enough to get it on sale at the warehouse sale for $1119.

2011年8月23日星期二

Stepping up

To the international fashion world Mark Fast is an iconoclast with a talent to be reckoned with.

To his family and friends in Winnipeg, he is the dreamer who gets inspiration from Manitoba highways and horizons.

The 30-year-old fashion designer grew up outside Selkirk, later moving closer to the city, where he attended Mennonite Brethren Collegiate Institute and from where he says, "I imagined my way to London."

Fast moved to England to attend the prestigious Central St. Martin's School, whose graduates include designer Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. He completed his undergraduate degree and in 2008 earned his master's as well. Fast is one of a select group of students to pass the rigours of the New Generation selection committee, paving the way for him to have his work on display during London Fashion week. His clothes have been worn by celebrities including Kylie Minogue, Leighton Meester and Beyoncé.

Fast's rise to international fashion darling was quick. He won praise for his urbane, spiderweb hand-knit dresses and drew a lot of press for the so-called size-zero debacle in which he used size 12 models to show his tight-fitting knit mini-dresses during one of his 2009 London shows. In a culture where stick figures are the standard, it was a bold move, especially for an emerging brand.

Fast's designs are sold at retail locations such as Barney's in New York, and The Room at The Bay and Carte Blanche in Toronto. The designer has also been thinking of launching an online shop. In the meantime, if his collections -- even his diffusion line, Faster by Mark Fast -- are out of reach for most Winnipeg fashion lovers geographically, not to mention price-wise, there will soon be a way for Fast fans to get their hands, or rather their feet, on one of his designs.

Fast is creating a collection in collaboration with Montreal-based footwear company Aldo. The pieces will be previewed at New York fashion week next month where Fast will be showing his lower price line, Faster, for the first time.

While they are still in the production phase, early reports say that some shoes in the collection will be inspired by African designs and will incorporate some of Fast's trademark sexy knits. A fringe sandal, for example, is made with a textile and leather-trimmed wedge heel while the top has raffia detailing and knit straps.

"It's the combination of traditional and contemporary references. I like the dichotomy of something severe and serene," says Fast in an email. "This collaboration has given me the opportunity to work with new shoe technology and resources. The Aldo team have been quite inspiring in their innovations."

Aldo returns the love.

"Mark is a fellow Canadian whose talent we have always admired," Douglas Bensadoun, Aldo creative director told the Free Press in an email. "Aldo feels strongly about supporting Canadian fashion whether at home or abroad and we know our customers will be as excited as we are about this collaboration."

An as-yet-undetermined number of Mark Fast/Aldo shoes will be at Aldo stores for spring 2012. But those interested can get a preview from the catwalk photos of his September Faster show in New York.

Fast has already collaborated with the likes of British retailer Topshop and French shoe guru Christian Louboutin.

The designer/High Street collaborations have been making news since Karl Lagerfeld first did a collection for the Swedish retailer H&M in 2004. It's a way for the designer to make quick cash, something their own lines don't easily do for them, and for the mass market brand to gain some star power.

The Fast/Aldo deal is arguably one of the more exciting Canadian retail collaborations to date. It's also one more step closer to Fast's Canadian roots, which he seems to be embracing of late. He worked with Toronto-based Danier leathers on his autumn/winter 2011/12 collection and is selling a capsule collection under Danier. This past summer he had an installation at Toronto's Luminato cultural festival.

Do his Canadian projects suggest his star is fading in London? Unlikely, as British shopaholics seem as eager for the Aldo collections as anyone, if the style bloggers are any measure.

Online site CatwalkQueen got a preview of a first sketch and concluded, "It seems like it'll be a pretty stellar collaboration," while British lifestyle magazine Grazia cooed, "In a brilliant move by High Street shoe giant Aldo, Mr. Fast will now be delivering his sexy knits and flashy fringing to a whole new area of the body -- and we reckon they're going to be super hot."

2011年8月22日星期一

"Cornered"

Oh, Walter. Even when you are right, you are so, so wrong. "This whole thing—all of this—it's all about me!” he insists when trying to open Jesse's eyes to how Gus and Mike are manipulating him. "I am not in danger—I am the danger!” he glowers to Skyler when she reiterates that he should give himself up rather than work with murderers. Yes and yes. But, in a more accurate sense, no no no no what are you doing you idiot no!

For a man who began this series by reinventing himself and establishing a double life, Walter's salient characteristic in season four is his tone-deafness to people and situations. Skyler correctly interprets his drunken boasting at Hank and Marie's dinner table, realizing that (a) he wouldn't have gotten so bent out of shape if Hank's praise weren't for a co-worker, and (b) if Walter's co-workers are being viciously murdered, that's not the safe and stable workplace he had allowed her to imagine. But he cruelly swats away her concern, choosing to focus on her unfortunate insistence that he's in over his head rather than her legitimate concern for everyone's safety. "Who are you talking to right now? Who is it that you think you see?” he shouts. In his mind, he's the linchpin of the Fring empire, which "ceases to exist” if he doesn't show up for work, and woe betide anyone who belittles him. To Skyler's nightmare scenario of someone knocking at their door with murderous intentions, Walter hisses, "I am the one who knocks.”

Almost immediately, Walter realizes that his outburst was a terrible mistake. When Skyler initially insisted (back in episode three, "Open House”) that Walter go to the police if things get rough, it was part of a scene where she was taking control and schooling Walter on the notion of risk. Now in this second iteration, both we and Walter belatedly realize that she's absolutely serious about this part—it's not a piece of the power play. His remorse comes too late, though; Skyler grabs Holly and, in one of her more heartbreaking scenes in the series, flips a coin at the Four Corners monument to decide which state to flee to. She can't accept the verdict of the coin—Colorado—even when Holly gazes up at her with a baby's wide-eyed look of trust, as if to say, "Where we headed, Mom?” In the end, fate and common sense alike lose out over the processes she's already set in motion, I'm surmising; we're likely to find out more of her reasons for staying in coming episodes, but it's still a bit mysterious here.

Walter misreads his reunion with Jesse at the Fring laundry even more egregiously, although his analysis of the situation is eerily accurate. If there were a single empathetic bone in his body these days, he would see that what he's doing to Jesse in that conversation is exactly what has been done to him—and what has turned him into a fuming ball of rage. He attempts to demonstrate to Jesse exactly why nobody would spend two minutes or two cents grooming him for higher responsibilities in the organization. Why would anybody use Jesse as a guard? "Are you a former Navy SEAL? Do you have to have your hands registered as lethal weapons?” he sneers. Don't underestimate Jesse too badly, Walter—he sees more than anyone thinks. "I see that they can't outright kill me, but they don't want me getting high. I see that this thing started as Gus getting Mike to babysit me,” Jesse asserts. But then he saved Mike from robbery or worse, "so maybe I'm not such a loser after all.” But Walter's not listening to that last bit, which is the key to understanding what's happening inside Jesse's head; he just wants to understand what's happening inside Fring's head. "This robbery you stopped wasn't even real… Gus goes to work driving a wedge between you and me—how long did those guys even chase you?”

What Walter is willfully ignoring is that the bond between him and Jesse, the one Gus is trying to break, is not one of trust and mutual benefit. It's now based on the horrible things they've done for each other and to each other. That's a bond Jesse is clearly fleeing, substituting Mike as his mentor and going all out to impress him when they stake out the illicit house of blue meth together. Mike is in no mood to be the audience for this performance at first, but when Jesse lures tweaker Tucker out into the yard and even gets him to take over the pointless digging ("How deep do you think it is?” Jesse asks; "Pretty deep,” Tucker confesses), he breaks into a near smile. We don't hear Mike's assessment of his performance to Fring at the diner, cutting away to Jesse waiting outside before he articulates it, but when Fring comes out, Jesse uneasily solicits his praise. "I hear you can handle yourself,” Fring observes, and when Jesse asks, "Why me?”, the boss replies: "I like to think I can see things in people.” It may have started as a ploy, as Gus and Mike's conversation last week indicated and as Jesse intuits. But if I were in his shoes, I'd believe that I had gotten the boss's notice after that little exchange.

And given that there is trouble afoot with the cartel, Gus is going to need some people who can read the lay of the land. The episode begins with a blackly comic inversion of Mike's badassery in "Bullet Points,” as two Fring enforcers hiding in the back of a fry-batter shipment get outsmarted (rather than outgunned) by three cartel hit men. After offing the driver, the cartel guys attach the truck's exhaust to the refrigeration system, smothering the enforcers in carbon monoxide and forcing them to shoot the truck full of holes from the inside to try to catch a breath. Wait a bit, push the bodies out of the way when you open the truck, use your black light to find the one bucket of batter marked with an invisible star, leave the rest to spoil in the desert (along with the driver's empty lunch cooler, whose contents you've already consumed), and when Gus' men come looking for their stolen crystal, send them a message: "Ready to talk?” That's the cartel approach, and Mike sees it as hardball; he wants to strike back in the same vein, by hiring more muscle and taking the fight to them, but Gus wants the war to "stay cold” and directs Mike to set up the meeting.

Walter's certainly not wrong to see everything as ploys, schemes, setups, chess moves. It all is that. But it can also be more—relationships, loyalties, trust, consequences. When he buys Walter Jr. a muscle car instead of a sensible used car from the lot they visit first, it's blatant bribery ("I think if you're going to buy me off… buy me off”). Then he makes two claims to assert his right to do so: "Maybe it's a little flashy, but he needed a car, and I'm his father—I should be able to give him what he wants;” and, when it's clear Skyler will not let it stand, "I just worry that he'll blame you for this.” The problem is that those claims directly contradict the central claim of protecting his family that he's repeated to others and to himself ad nauseam. Walter doesn't believe everyone can come out a winner.  Even as he loudly insists on "The firewall! Church and state!” to avoid being interrogated by Skyler about his work in Gus' lab, he kicks as hard as he can against the firewalls that others have erected to keep their trains running on time, sapping and sabotaging them like mad to claw his way back into a position of power. Or, as Skyler puts it (in a speech that's just a bit too on-the-nose), "Someone has to protect this family from the man who protects this family.” All Walter can see are ways to divide and conquer, both those being used on him by others and those he's deploying himself, and it's a form of blindness he's not going to be able to afford much longer.

2011年8月19日星期五

Smart 'back to school' looks come in bold patterns, plaids and stripes

What's cool for school this fall?

Look for patterns, including plaids and bold stripes on everything from shirts and dresses to backpacks and coats. For guys and girls, hoodies and graphic or solid T's are great for layering and look good with skinny jeans (yes, they're still "in"), as well as some of the '70s-influenced boot-cut and flares that are coming 'round again. Blazers are also a good look for 2011, as are high-top sneakers -- for girls this is a fun way to translate the high-fashion "menswear" trend that you'll see this season.

Texture is also important, with faux fur and hand-made crochet looks adding cozy warmth once the weather gets cooler. Look for both materials in vests that update dresses, jeans or leggings. Another layering possibility: the easy-to-wear shrug.

For feet, ballet flats, canvas flats and boots with wedge heels are casual and comfortable ways to show style.

Accessory details you'll want to hold onto from last year: scarves, feathers (woven into hair and in earrings), chunky watches and vintage touches like retro sunglasses or even lunchboxes.

Remember to wear it all with confidence, your truly coolest accessory.

Girls just wanna have fur

Faux-fur leopard vest, Pink Chicken, $89, Zoe + Jack. Dress, Pink Chicken, $79, Zoe + Jack. Black leggings, $5, Target. Bronze headband, $20, Ruby. Satin ballet flats, $29.95, Gap Kids. Vintage lunchbox, $89, Montgomery Street Antique Mall.

Go graphic

Long-sleeve T-shirt, $17.94, Old Navy. Black denim jean, $40, Macy's. Light-up shoes, Skechers, $54.99, Famous Footwear.

Show your stripes

Striped T-shirt, Copper Key, $20, Dillard's. Boy blazer, Daughters of the Liberation, $88, Anthropologie. Boot-cut denim jean, $69.50, Gap. Hinged skinny belt, $48, Anthropologie. Wedge boot, Chinese Laundry, $59.95, DSW Shoe Warehouse. Pendant leaf necklace, $35, Ruby. I-Phone rocker case set, Tech Candy, $32.99, Bon Sens, The Shoppes at Brownstone Village.

Sleek in a slim hoodie

Hooded cardigan, Buckle Black Label No. 048, $49.95, Buckle. T-shirt, $4, Target. Plaid long-sleeve shirt, BKE, $49.95, Buckle. Denim jean, $49.50, Hollister. Canvas shoes, $45, Vans. Headband headphones, Philips, $41.79, Target. Model's own woven bracelet.

Shrug it on

Long sleeve T-shirt, $15, Justice. Shrug sweater, $34.95, Gap Kids. Dirndl skirt, Candie's Girl, $40, Kohl's. Athletic shoes, $49.99, Converse All Star, Journeys. Plaid backpack, $29.99, Target. Knee-high socks, $4.99, Target.

2011年8月16日星期二

These Troupers Take Dramatic Turns at the Hospital

http://cheaphoganshoes.slkut.com/106

Quinn Lemley, an actress and chanteuse, has specialized in portraying Rita Hayworth in a one-woman show—channeling the 1940s glamour queen's songs and mannerisms, sashaying across the stage in elegant evening gowns reminiscent of old Hollywood.

But on some mornings after a performance, Ms. Lemley would report to Weill Cornell Medical College for a very different kind of acting job. Her costume for these gigs is two hospital gowns, one wrapped artfully on top of the other, accented by her long, red hair and, on a recent day, four-inch, flaming orange wedge shoes.

"I try to wear the gowns in a stylish way," says Ms. Lemley, preparing to slip into character as a newspaper editor with severe chest pains and a drug habit.

Forget waiting on tables or doing menial jobs. These days, to support themselves between gigs, or simply keep plying their craft, actors are auditioning at hospitals and medical schools to portray sick people—"standardized patients" in med school terms—who help aspiring doctors learn their craft.

Win May, who oversees the standardized patient program at the University of Southern California's Keck School of Medicine says she has recruited actors who have appeared on TV shows such as "Mad Men" and "The Closer" or starred in commercials.

In New York, Bedpan Alley, the nickname for a swath of hospitals on Manhattan's Upper East Side, has forged an alliance with the city's deep pool of professional actors—many of whom are happy to land a day job playing a patient.

Weill Cornell Medical College, the Manhattan school connected to Cornell University and New York Presbyterian Hospital, pays actors $25 an hour typically for an eight-hour day. The medical college invested $13 million in a standardized patients center opened in 2007. Along with a dozen exam rooms stocked with medical equipment, there are hidden cameras that record every interaction between students and actors; two-way mirrors allow faculty to observe.

"It is like what happens at a police station," says Yoon Kang, director of the medical school's Margaret and Ian Smith Clinical Skills Center. The encounter is recorded, and students later review their performance and get feedback.

In the current economy, both Dr. Kang in New York and Dr. May in L.A. say they've seen an uptick in actors wanting patient roles.

"At least you're acting on some level," says Denise Lock, an actress and opera singer who is part of Weill Cornell's ensemble cast. Ms. Lock, who has appeared in overseas productions of Porgy and Bess, is a veteran at playing patients at medical school.

"I have done heart attacks, lupus, diabetes, Parkinson's, hot flashes," she says.

Medical schools have long used "simulated" patients to teach students to diagnose conditions. But these programs have become more widespread—and rigorous—in recent years, experts say. Concern over patient safety helped fuel growth, Dr. Kang says: "In simulated environments, students can practice and make mistakes—no one is going to get hurt."

2011年8月15日星期一

5 Questions for Alexandre Birman

Alexandre Birman is enjoying the smooth sailing of his business — and his vacation.

Speaking to Footwear News from Cap Ferrat in southeastern France during his annual summer break last month, Birman said, “This fall is all about python. I even just saw some high-shaft python boots at the Valentino store in Monaco. Everybody's into it, which is good for my brand.”

The Brazilian designer, known for his use of exotic skins, said his company is the largest consumer of python in South America today. “We're well treated by the tanneries because [of the volume of our orders],” he said, adding that bookings for the resort '12 collection doubled over last year.

As Birman's sales grow, his success pushes him even harder. That's why he even sketches while on vacation.

“It's time to start thinking about fall '12. I'm trying to use the wedge for closed-toe shoes with a more pointy toe construction,” said Birman. “Usually people think of the wedge as more for sandals, but I intend to do a very beautiful, sophisticated wedge pump.”

Here, Birman discusses his expansion strategy and his love of the exotics.

What are the best and worst things about working with python skins?
AB: The best thing about snakeskin is it's really thin so it molds to the last much better [than cow leather]. Also, the [brightness of] color and shine you get on python skin is something you will never get on cow skin. The worst thing is the bureaucracy. [Note: Exotic skins are regulated by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, signed by governments to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival.] I believe the trade of animals has to be really well controlled, so I don't blame the governments. All our python skins are CITES-certified, but in some countries such as France, you have to work within a bigger timeframe for delivery because [of all the documentation involved]. It takes about 30 days to get authorization to receive the goods.

What are your immediate expansion plans?
AB: We just sold our first collection in Hong Kong, [where] we have a great partnership with Lane Crawford. Our first shipment was for pre-fall. They already bought our resort collection for delivery in November, so we're very confident it will be a very nice relationship — and with On Pedder as well. Afterward, we're going to increase our distribution in Japan and also in China.

What about opening branded stores?
AB: We have our own boutique in São Paolo, which is doing pretty well as our exclusive point of sale in that city. But that's because in Brazil there is no Bergdorf Goodman or Saks Fifth Avenue and so forth. It's really hard to sell your brand without being represented in a multibrand shop. [Internationally], in this present moment, our relationship with the major department stores has been so successful that that's the way we will keep growing.

How has working in your father's firm, Arezzo & Co., impacted your success?
AB: People who really know me know I was born and raised in a shoe factory, so it has definitely helped me a lot to have made shoes since I was a kid, because of all the technical aspects that go into making a shoe. I learned everything, from comfort to fit. My brand is three years old, and the business has grown 75 percent this year over last. I don't think there are many labels out there with the same result.

You've designed for Schutz, a contemporary brand under Arezzo. Have you ever considered a second line under your own label?
AB: Schutz sells more than 1.6 million pairs of shoes in Brazil alone every year. It's a very big brand with a good average entry price point, about $180. I don't have a lot of time to dedicate to [anything else]. To be honest, I don't think I will ever have an “AB by Alexandre Birman” type of line. [At least for now], it's not the right moment as I have to really consolidate and establish myself as a designer. Other designers may constantly think of ways to grow their business, but I'm not [driven by just] making a lot of money. For me, the $500 price point is nice.

2011年8月12日星期五

Craftspeople supply goods to re-enactors, spectators alike

When it comes to anything Civil War -- from muskets to the shoe grease needed to soften footwear -- it's all available at your friendly battlefield sutlery.

For the uninformed, a sutlery is something like a general store for soldiers and a museum for casual visitors.

If visitors to Andy Fulks' Fall Creek Suttlery don't want to spend several hundred dollars on a reproduction firearm, perhaps they can spare $2 for a Marsh Wheeler's Stogie cigar.

For Missouri Guard re-enactor Jamie Morgan, searching for a pair of size 11 brogans involved a visit to Fulks' sutlery.

His well-worn footwear is 18 years old, Morgan said, and can't be repaired.

"I've had these shoes as long as I've been doing (re-enactments)," he said while studying his battered shoes.

Fulks has brick-and-mortar and online stores in Indiana, but he's also on a multi-year trek from re-enactment to re-enactment.

"I feel like it's going to peak in 2013 at the 150th anniversaries of Gettysburg and Chickamauga," he said.

The two dozen sutlers and craftspeople like Fulks at Wilson's Creek this weekend will sell a variety of merchandise.

Anita and Dean Lauramore of Jacksonville, Fla., offer items at Ortega Traders that once were very popular but now are curiosities.

That's particularly true of jewelry made of human hair, Anita Lauramore said.

Popularized by Queen Victoria, hair jewelry became during the Civil War a universal way to mourn fallen soldiers or as remembrance items, Lauramore said.

Hair jewelry was popular with women, but crafting the items was a strictly male occupation, she said.

Modern-day hair jewelry can be had for $20, but authentic items can cost several hundred dollars, she said.

It all comes down to authenticity, even for the ladies, Lyndsey Miller said as she walked through the sutler's area with mother-in-law Pam Miller.

Men involved in battle re-enactments might talk about the rigors of wearing wool uniforms, but the women don't have it much easier, Lyndsey Miller said.

As a proper Victorian lady, the Monroe, La., resident's attire includes a chemise, a pair of pantaloons, a petticoat, hoop skirt, another petticoat, yet another skirt, gloves and a blue broad-brimmed hat.

No re-enactment lady wants to commit the sin of being "farby," she said.

"That means not period-correct," Miller said.

People taking advantage of a free-admission night and a student open house Thursday evening got a view of that authenticity, thanks to sponsoring organization Wilson's Creek National Battlefield Foundation, said education coordinator Mary Beth Cox.

Activities ranging from games to displays on civilian life during the war aim to give a more rounded view of the conflict, Cox said.

2011年8月11日星期四

London riots 'a gang thing, like in Detroit'

Violence, looting and the fear of what fresh chaos nightfall will bring.

That's the dire situation some former Windsorites are facing this week in England as rioting, arson and social turmoil spread like wildfire across the country and into their neighbourhoods.

Stephanie Cook now lives in the London suburb of Ealing, which got hit hard. Young kids roamed the streets smashing windows and anything else in their path.

"They looted the jewelry stores, three phone shops and a local electronics store," said Cook. "They also hit a charity shop that sold electrical goods."

Violence erupted in Tottenham, England, another London suburb, on the weekend after police shot and killed 29-year-old Mark Duggan while trying to arrest him. Protesters marched on the police station there and some of them set two cars on fire.

Before long, the anger bubbled over onto the streets and the rioting, arson and looting spread into London and across the country.

"What started the whole thing has long been forgotten and now it is just sheer greed, consumerism and probably boredom," said Cook.

"We've all talked about how crap it feels to be living here now. We're bewildered and really quite angry."

That is becoming a common sentiment, as people start hoping the worst of the violence is over and anger begins to overtake their fear.

"The majority of these are kids who have no respect for anything or anyone and feel it is their right to take, maim and kill," said Mavis Grant, who lived in Windsor for decades before returning home to England. "They don't have a reason to riot. They are just feral scum. They are complacent in knowing they will not be severely punished if caught."

Despite the destruction she saw, Cook said her part of Ealing got off easy.

"Down the other end, near the train station, they hit another row of shops and burnt down a local grocer," said Cook. "The couple who live above it had to run for their lives. Their flat and all their possessions are now gone. Cars were burnt out, a baby clothing store was ransacked. A man who tried to put out a fire was attacked and is now fighting for his life. These are all neighbours - members of my community."

Cook said it's scary not knowing where they'll hit next.

"Saturday we thought it was a oneoff," she said. "Sunday was getting scary. Then for it to hit so close on Monday was terrifying. Hearing the sirens so close and the voices of the gangs.... I was so glad we don't live on the ground floor."

Former Windsorite Sarah DesRosiers now lives near Kingsland Road in London. That's where hundreds of Turkish men, many armed with sticks and broken billiard cues, hit the streets and fought off mobs to protect their homes and businesses. Her hair salon Wedge is on Caledonian Road near Kings Cross.

"Caledonian Road is quite known for that stuff," said DesRosiers, 36. "It's middle of summer, they're bored, the government has cut back. They're just trashing the place because they're bored. It's just senseless crime, thievery."

She said the situation gets dicey when the sun goes down.

"It's more at night when they come out," said DesRosiers. "What they do is they go in gangs. It's quite scary, very intimidating. They wear hoodies and balaclavas so you can't actually ID them. It's a gang thing, like in Detroit.

"A very common thing over here is stabbings. Kids use a lot of knives over here, so there's a lot of that."

She said fear that her hair salon could be burned or looted has also kept her up at night.

"They just steal running shoes and tellies and expensive goods, because they can't be bothered to get a job and earn it themselves," said DesRosiers.

"I spent two nights in bed just worrying about my shop. Will it be there tomorrow? This woman had a shop in Ealing and her whole place was trashed, burnt down. Families have lost their homes. I've never felt like this before, that threat from young kids."

Andrea Keelan, 24, a Windsorite who has lived in London for a year and a half, said her neighbourhood was looted over the weekend and a building was set on fire. She hasn't been able to get groceries because the stores are shut down.

"Everything is boarded up," said Keelan. "There are smashed windows."

On Monday night, she said rioters torched a large warehouse about 15 minutes from her home.

"Monday night was the worst of it," said Keelan. "Not being able to sleep because you're hearing sirens and helicopters and you're just sitting here wondering what is going on? Where are those sirens going to? You're getting nervous because you're watching it on the news, and the news couldn't keep up with all the reports. It was just one right after another, hitting all these different spots of London. It just happening so fast. There just wasn't enough police to stop these people."

2011年8月10日星期三

Pebble Beach making even more improvements

While one renovation project is already underway at world renowned Pebble Beach Golf Links, others could soon begin taking shape.

As of this week, the main irrigation system at Pebble Beach, which at around 30 years old is outdated, has begun being replaced in order to further improve its effectiveness and water conservation.

The $2 million project, which Pebble Beach Company Senior Vice-President of Golf RJ Harper said is being done on a hole-to-hole basis, primarily consists of the replacement of the main line around the perimeter of the course.

"The irrigation system has been due for replacement, and now is the time to do it," Harper said.

Following the improvement to the infrastructure of the course, which is expected to be completed in October, Harper said Pebble Beach officials will then begin taking a look at the day-to-day playability of the course.

One of the areas that's sure to be closely scrutinized will be the green of the par-5 14th hole.

While Jeff Sluman won the recent Champions Tour Nature Valley First Tee Open at Pebble Beach in part due to sinking a birdie putt on the 14th, the severely sloped green in general has been a headache inducer for the pros, so much so that many have called the hole "unfair."

During the 2010 AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro-Am, four players, including most notably Paul Goydos, carded quadruple-bogeys on the hole. In just the second round of the 2010 U.S. Open alone, meanwhile, eight players had scores of double-bogey or higher on the 14th.

Another green that is certain to be looked will be the hourglass-shaped 17th. In the first round of the 2010 U.S. Open, 13 players carded double-bogey or higher on the hole. Following one of his rounds, Tom Watson, no stranger to the hole, stated, "Just to get it on the surface there is a major achievement."

According to Harper, once the irrigation project is finished in October, Pebble Beach co-owner and icon Arnold Palmer and his team will arrive to consult with Pebble Beach officials to determine what, if anything, will be done with the 14th and other areas of the course in preparation for the 2018 U.S. Amateur Championship and 2019 U.S. Open at Pebble Beach.

Palmer played a key role in changes that occurred at Pebble Beach prior to the 2010 U.S. Open, including pushing the fairways back closer to the ocean as they originally were meant to play.

As to when those projects would begin, Pebble Beach Co. CEO Bill Perocchi recently stated that should any changes occur to the 14th or other areas of the golf course proper, they wouldn't begin until 2013 or so.

U.S. Amateur

Salinas' Matt Pinizzotto earned a spot in the upcoming U.S. Amateur Championship (Aug. 22-28 at Erin Hills CC), shooting a 5-under 139 Tuesday in a 36-hole qualifier held at Richmond CC.

Pinizzotto tied for medalist honors. In another qualifier held at Sunnyside CC, Carmel's Jason Melvin became first alternate after finishing third with a score of 2-over 142. Michael Decker of Pebble Beach has already qualified for the championship.

NCGA Amateur

Some of the Golden State's best amateurs will be in the field when the 108th NCGA Amateur Match Play Championship gets underway Monday at Spyglass Hill. Among the locals slated to tee off include Stevenson sophomore Seb Crampton, Matt Pinizzotto, Jason Melvin and Chad and Luke Vivolo.

Following two days of stroke play qualifying (Monday and Tuesday), the low 32 will move on to match play, culminating in Friday's 36-hole final. Past champions of the event include Lawson Little Jr. (1928, 1931), Roger Maltbie (1972), Kevin Sutherland (1986) and Spencer Levin (2002, 2004).

Rancho Round-Up

Last week marked the halfway point of Rancho Canada's Thursday Twilight Round-Up golf league. Held every Thursday (starting at 2 p.m.) through October 13, the Round-Up consists of 18 holes with various formats including individual stroke play, 2-person best ball and 2-person scramble. Fee is $39 per player and includes cart and weekly tee awards ($10 Skins game is optional).

Throughout the season, players can win points determined by their finish (1st place=5, 2nd=4, etc.). At the end of the season, the 1st place finisher will win a weekday annual green fee pass at Rancho. Prizes for 2nd through 5th place include a set of Callaway irons, a Taylor Made driver and a pair of Foot Joy shoes. All entrants must register by noon on the day of play.

2011年8月8日星期一

Wardrobe Oxygen: Transitional Fashion from Summer to Fall

While it's still 500,000 degrees here in Washington D.C., the fashion world has already deemed it to be fall. While I'm in need of a couple more sundresses and pairs of shorts to get through the next couple of months, shops are chock full of chunky knits, long-sleeved shirts and wool skirts. Even though I work up a sweat in this weather just walking to the car, I have to admit I too am lusting for tall leather boots and tweed.

How do you dress for the weather, but also dress for the season?

It's In the Jeans. The easiest way to bring fall's fashion into your summer wardrobe is by adopting a denim trend. This fall, the jegging has returned, but there are also come very fun leg cuts (wide legs, deep flares, baby boots) that will look amazing in October with fall blouses and jackets, but can look quite chic in August with a simple tank and wedge sandals.

A deep dark indigo or colorful hue will make your new denim not only be on-trend for cut, but on-trend for color. Pair with white now for a very crisp and modern look; mix this denim with autumnal hues post-Labor Day for a completely different but still current style.

Run for Cover. Though it may still be steamy outside, it can get downright chilly indoors with everyone's A/C on full blast. Try topping your sundresses with a fashionable fall jacket.

Leather and denim are hot for fall and look great with sundresses as well as wintry pieces. A leather moto or biker jacket can give your floral cotton dresses an urban edge; a denim jacket tempers the sweetness of a frothy frock. Come cooler weather, pair your jackets with pants or dresses of heavier-weight fabrics.

These Boots Were Made for Walking. A pair of tall boots works like a jacket in balancing out a sweet summer sundress. Be they cowboy, classic riding boots, or an ankle bootie with edge, the weight of the leather works in lovely contrast to lightweight cottons, silks and rayons.

A brown boot does a better job of transitioning between seasons, though black can give a tough-girl look with an eyelet or lace frock.

Get Shorty. This season, shorts came back in a big way…and they are here to stay through fall. Unique fabrics such as leather, lace, and glazed cotton can work almost year-round, looking seasonally appropriate based upon the rest of the ensemble. A unique cut such as a paperbag waist will transition nicely as well.  Pair a dark indigo denim pair with a white tank and gladiator sandals now, and with a silky bow-neck blouse and pumps in a couple of months.

Choose dark colors to have a better chance of your shorts looking seasonally appropriate come September. Denim, leather, wool, and heavy twill can be paired with bare legs until the weather begins to cool, and then can be worn through winter with opaque tights and closed-toe shoes.

Color Your World. With each season not only are there new silhouettes and styles, but also new color trends. You can get the fall look by choosing lightweight pieces in the current colors. A silk shell in pumpkin paired with a dark denim pencil skirt, a deep teal sheath dress with a leopard print haircalf belt, royal purple midi-length skirt with a simple navy tank and wooden bangle bracelets. These pieces can look summery now, but also will work with your fall and winter wardrobes.

How do you handle the wardrobe transition between summer and fall?

2011年8月7日星期日

Craving: flat(ish) sandals with a little edge

Remember these gladiators?

I bought them a little while before BlogHer’09; it was one of the last pairs of shoes I bought before leaving New York. Even though they are strictly a summer shoe, this is the pair I have used the most in the past couple of years, which is why they featured heavily in my OOTW posts (like here, here, and here).
I loved how wearable they were, the soft black leather that went with everything and the tarnished gold studs and hardware that added a little edge without making them too “blingy”.
I am sad to say that my beloved gladiators are no more :-( After two years of hard work and much walking down the streets of New York City, Zurich, Nuoro (and brief stints in Chicago, Alicante and Barcelona), they gave up and cracked while I was vacationing in Sardinia.
I know what you are thinking: you were in Italy, you doofus, why didn’t you find another cool pair? I tried my dears, I really did: but truth be told, Italian footwear as a whole  is generally a lot more classic and less egdy than, say, something you’d find in New York. So compared to my precioussss all sandals came up flat and boring.
Which is why I have been scouring the internets to find a replacement, since the Pacha is no longer available in my size in this color combo (or even in brown – however if you are interested they can be found in white and fuchsia, at a 50-75% discount). This is what I have found so far that I have deemed acceptable substitutes:
Naughty Monkey sandals This Beam Me Up sandal from Naughty Monkey has the right vibe, and at $79.99, it gets bonus points for a great price. I love the braiding motif, however I am hesitating because of the thin straps, which in my experience tend to be much more uncomfortable when the foot swells a little (or a lot) because of hot weather and lots of walking. But I do like them so I’ll keep them in the list for now.
Dolce Vita sandalsI just love the Campbell sandal by Dolce Vita! Though they have no hardware, I really like the criss-cross pattern and the tassel in the back. I also think that the tiny bit of wedge will probably make them a bit more comfortable than a completely flat sandal, and on sale they are priced very nicely at $79.99! A strong contender.
Isola sandals
The Alda sandal by Isola is like a more polished, feminine version of my gladiators. The leather is textured and has a sheen to it, not quite patent but also not totally matte. The studs are tiny, barely there, and the straps are thinner, with more buckles and an additional toe strap that would probably keep the foot from sliding up and down in hot weather. The result is a similar sandal that manages to somehow look daintier, which means it would be easier to dress up. However I wonder if it’s too plain, in which case I’d get bored of it quickly; I am not sure I want to shell out $139.90 for it. I do like it though, so it’s staying on the list.
Calvin Klein shoes
Admittedly, the Jasmine sandal from Calvin Klein is not a flat sandal; but with the 1-inch platform the wedge is only 2 3/4” high, and cork to boot, which means these would probably be super-comfortable to walk in and also easy to drive in (I don’t like driving in heels or thick-soled shoes.) The sale price of 97.80 is good, and I love the wide straps and small studs. I am a little concerned that the synthetic sole might get hot and uncomfortable in hot weather, but I could always add some Dr. Scholl’s inserts and be done with it.
JOIE Turn Me Loose Sandal in Caviar at Revolve Clothing - Free...
The Turn Me Loose sandal by JOIE is a great find, since it’s probably the one that most resembles my defunct fave. The studs are great, if a tad too shiny for my taste, and the wide straps must be really comfortable, though suede tends to be really delicate, so I wonder if they are sturdy enough for an everyday summer sandal. Still, it’s a strong contender, especially since with the summer sales I can get it for $84.50.
Chain Gladiator — National Jean Company
Ah, I love this Frida sandal from National Jean Company! The sole and small heel are the most similar to my Pacha gladiators, so is the back. The wide strap means more support for my wide feet, and while there are no studs, the chain detail at the ankle is really fun. At $198 (on sale!) it’s almost double what I had budgeted, but it’s my favorite of the bunch! Only the fact that they are suede gives me pause, ’cause as I said I feel they might be too delicate for an everyday summer sandal.
What do you think? Which one of these do you prefer?
What do you do when a favorite item of clothing or footwear goes kaput?

2011年8月3日星期三

This is the inside of the vogue shoe closet

Having an obsession with shoes makes a lot of sense. Feet are heinous. It makes sense for people to develop compulsive feelings toward the items responsible for covering them up. God Save My Shoes is a forthcoming documentary dedicated to those glorified bunion sheaths, and the men and women who worship at their leather-soled altar. Check out the clip from the movie below which features the mythical Vogue shoe closet. I've never been able to relate to Gollum as strongly as I do seeing those rows of shoes. Me wants the precious.

2011年8月1日星期一

Can you wobble your way to buns of steel?

The popularity of “toning” shoes, which have unstable soles that require you to work muscles harder to stay balanced, suggests consumers are banking on it.
Sales of toning shoes — which cost from $70 to upwards of $200 and have enlisted celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Wayne Gretzky to tout their fitness benefits — soared to $736 million in 2010 from $145 million the year before thanks to the entry of more than a dozen brands into the market, according to market research firm NPD Group.
The ads for many of the shoes, showcasing women with enviably sculpted legs, say that wearing them will help you burn more calories, tone muscles and improve posture. (There are toning shoes for men, too, but the customer base is overwhelmingly female.)
Most manufacturers compare the experience of wearing their shoes to walking on sand.
Foot doctors for years have been prescribing shoes with unstable soles to help patients with foot or ankle arthritis, but can they also get you a few steps closer to firmer thighs?
Peer-reviewed studies on shoes made by Masai Barefoot Technology, pioneers of the rocker-bottom shoes that are beveled at the heel and toe, have found that standing and walking in unstable shoes can strengthen neglected foot muscles and provide some knee and low back pain relief, along with other therapeutic benefits.
Studies on FitFlops, which use Microwobbleboard technology in the midsole, have found they reduce foot pressure by an average of 25 percent and can absorb 22 percent more shock in the lower legs.
Whether that translates to a better backside is sketchy.
Skechers, whose Shape-ups have a rocker sole and an “ultra-soft Resamax kinetic wedge” for a squishier cushion, points to a study published last year in the journal Clinical Biomechanics that found that people who walked in MBTs after ankle arthritis surgery burned more calories than controls who walked barefoot or in normal walking shoes.
Previous news stories have cited studies funded by Skechers that found people lost more weight and body fat wearing Shape-ups than flat shoes, but those studies were criticized as being poorly controlled (Skechers declined to provide the studies).
Reebok, whose EasyTones use balance-ball-inspired pods and “Moving Air Technology” to create instability, commissioned a study that found electrical activity was 28 percent greater in buttocks muscles and 11 percent greater in calf muscles for wearers of EasyTones versus a regular Reebok walking shoe.
Neither company provides guidelines for how long or frequently people should wear the shoes to see benefits. They say the shoes are not meant to replace the gym, but rather help people “get more out of every step,” said Leonard Armato, president of Skechers Fitness Group.
In search of an independent assessment, the American Council on Exercise last year sponsored a study that found that walking in Skechers Shape-ups, Reebok EasyTone Reenspire or MBTs was no more effective at burning calories or working muscles than walking in a regular New Balance running shoe.
The researchers, from the Exercise and Health Program at the University of Wisconsin, La Crosse, tested muscle activity in the calves, quadriceps, hamstrings, gluteus, abdominals and lower back.
Even if muscles do work harder at first to overcome the instability, the effect dissipates as muscles adjust, said Cedric Bryant, chief science officer for the American Council on Exercise.