Mad Men's fashion mavens: get the look

Fashion types like to describe a stylish woman or man as being ''effortlessly chic,'' but Janie Bryant knows that's a lie.

Bryant, the award-winning costume designer who makes Betty Draper look so icily perfect, Joan Holloway so sexy and Don Draper so well-groomed and in control on the TV series Mad Men, says looking great takes effort — whether you are dressing characters for a show or getting yourself ready for an event.

And those who pull it off don't just wear the latest designer collection or follow the trends — they've learned what flatters their figure and coloring, what works for the occasion, and what hairstyle, makeup and accessories are needed to make the difference between ho-hum and woo-hoo, she says.Bryant has had time to think about this, as Mad Men is between seasons.

In the meantime, she's become a Maidenform pitchwoman, sold her designs on QVC and penned a book, The Fashion File.

Why is it that we're still so obsessed with the 1960s — the era Mad Men is set in?

From a fashion perspective, ''it is such a classic and elegant period,'' Bryant says. ''The shapes are still relevant today because they're figure-flattering.''

It's also a response to how casual society has become, she says. ''The art of dressing up has been lost for the past 10 to 20 years, and I think people want to learn about that,'' she says. ''People are hungering for knowledge on how to dress up. When you walk out of the house looking great, you feel so much better. You can conquer the world.''

Some of the 1960s elements that women are responding to and that Bryant loves are the sheath dress, pearl necklaces, hats, high heels and matching handbags to shoes.

She says that it's nice to remember the fashion rules as they once existed — and to break them if you want to. ''I used to not wear white after Labor Day and now I love it because it so contrasts with the season,'' she says.

Rules she's more careful to consider are those that relate to fit and body type. ''You should know where the waist seam should hit, where a princess seam fits, how short a skirt should be, your bra size.''

Find a good tailor or seamstress and your clothes will flatter you, she says. ''It's hard for things to fit right off the rack,'' she says.

Once the fit of your clothes is right, personalize your style. In Bryant's case, that means incorporating such vintage accessories as rings, bracelets, scarves, hats and handbags.

And don't feel like you have to dress the same way all the time, she says. Bryant varies her look, depending on where she is, but regardless, she likes to mix ''a little romance with a little bit of edge.

''In Los Angeles, she dresses ''more bohemian,'' in New York, ''a little more sophisticated.''She also likes to go along with fashion's romps through the decades, wearing everything from flapper-influenced 1920s gowns or hippie chic from the 1970s.

While Bryant admits that one of her favorite things to do is dress up and adapt to new environs, she knows not everyone agrees.For those who want to try to break out of a style rut, take baby steps. Step outside of your comfort zone simply by trying on different pieces and silhouettes in a store. Or play dress-up with what you already own, creating outfits for various occasions.

''If you're on a budget, shop in your closet,'' she says. ''Make an investment in time.''
1960s styles for modern wardrobes

In Fashion File: Advice, Tips and Inspiration from the Costumer Designer of Mad Men, Janie Bryant talks about how to adapt 1960s style to current wardrobes. Here are some of her picks:

The sexy sheath: This body-skimming dress hugs the bust and hips and is ideal on hourglass figures.

Cigarette pants: Preferably in black, these flat-front, slim-cut pants that taper at the ankle are more elegant and wearable than capris.

A shirtwaist dress: Choose a classic tailored style with a nipped waist and full skirt.\

A twin set: A cashmere shell and matching cardigan are day-wear essentials.

A string of pearls: Jackie Kennedy often wore a luminous pearl necklace, and many women owned them in varying lengths and styles. Brooches, too, were an accessory staple for sweaters, jackets and dresses.