Beker: Fun, fearlessness reign at New York fashion week

It used to be said in style circles that less was more. But that's a dying notion these days.

With so many labels, so much fashion information and incessant celebrity style hype, it seems we all can't get enough of the scene and its material trappings. While some insiders say that the corporatization of fashion has sucked a lot of the fun out of it, keeping up with all the looks coming down runways into stores and onto peoples' backs has become an intense and dizzying form of entertainment. It reached a fever pitch in New York this past week.

Marc Jacobs

“Staying focused,” said director Sofia Coppola, when I asked her how she thought friend Marc Jacobs was keeping his cool these days. The rumours about Marc Jacobs taking over creative reigns at Dior were the week's biggest buzz, and the designer has never been hotter. Many felt his take on spring — a retro riff on saloon and chorus girls — was one of the week's most striking. It felt utterly new and modern. Models coasted down a circular runway enhanced by strips of dressing room lights in a fascinating mix of garments and accessories including cellophane organza dresses, little plastic cowgirl boots and dance-hall shoes, shiny fake crocodile coats, gingham print and fringe. It was a witty and colourful tribute to pop Americana, and a real crowd pleaser.

Proenza Schouler

Lazaro Fernandez and Jack McCullough at Proenza Schouler never fail to charm with interesting cuts, disparate directions and fresh attitudes. They sent their clothes out to a tribal beat, and while Africa may have informed the show's jungle motifs, tiger and zebra accents, they claimed that continent had nothing to do with this exotic trip. Still, the orange eel A-line skirt was reminiscent of a Kenyan sunset.

Michael Kors

Michael Kors made no bones about sending his customers on a luxe safari — or making sure they'd have the wardrobe for it. His spring collection oozed rustic modernism and a laid-back attitude. There were capes and sarongs in gorgeous tie-dye linen and cashmere and zebra print on a linen shift. Teak and olive tie-dye chiffon jersey columns gave easy evening gowns an earthy glow, and lace up boots, sandals and oversized bags will undoubtedly keep cash registers ringing.

Jeremy Laing

Textile experimentation is the name of the game for Canadian Jeremy Laing. Inspired by a trip to Joshua Tree National Park in California, the fearless Hamilton native sent out a strong collection of flowing garments designed for women to move in. Soft organic prints, some smudged and others with fine geometric lines, and earthy tones came at us in a variety of interesting fabrics. Using crepe jersey, crinkle chiffon, hammered satin, silk linen and jacquard, Laing pushed the notion of sensuality and experimented with drape and flow.

Thakoon

Spice colours surfaced on several runways, including Thakoon. “I started out looking at the way cowboys dress, and studying some of those paisley bandanas,” he said. Then he realized the paisley prints were Indian. “So then it became this whole story about bringing the two worlds together.” From beautiful beadwork on an emerald silk shift dress to a shimmering gold pioneer skirt, Thakoon dished out glamour.

Tommy Hilfiger

Optimism was the order of the day at Tommy Hilfiger, who riffed on stripes and a pop-art feel for his colourful story. Colour-block caftans offered options for relaxed weekend dressing, but he got down to business with burgundy leather suits. A bright-yellow silk evening jumpsuit popped on the catwalk. Post-show, Tommy introduced me to his daughter Ally, 26, who is making waves with her new label, NAHM. “What the most important thing that your dad taught you about fashion?” I asked her. “That it's only fashion,” she said.

Zac Posen

“It's all about a return to elegance!” proclaimed Zac Posen, dashing through a corridor at Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall. After braving the divine but daunting Paris Fashion Weeks for two seasons, Zac's come home to New York. “Paris showed me who I could be in New York,” he said. The dresses were confections of sensuality, masterful construction and impressive detailing. There was an old, screen-siren feel to the looks, many which revere and celebrate the female form.

Marchesa

The haute mode was in evidence at Marchesa, where designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig riffed on an underwater fantasy, inspired by a deep-sea painting by Ilya Repin called “Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom.” An ethereal mood permeated the red carpet collection, which featured chiffon and translucent-coloured mesh with eye-popping embroideries, some that looked like fish scales and tentacles. Cascading fringes were used to magical effect, and gave the illusion of moving waters. Teal flowed into lilac, and the soft sea greens looked almost misty and the lilac, hand-pleated, silk-organza dress Karen Elson wore left us all breathless.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta attracted a diverse front row to his show, from Justin Timberlake to Barbara Walters and Valentino, and proved why this master of American fashion is one of the last great couturiers. Silk taffeta gowns opened the show, each with huge skirts — there was marigold, emerald, tomato red. It was a bold beginning of a collection filled with some of the most romantic and colourful confections of the week. There were poppy prints, a dress covered in blossom appliqués and old-fashioned white battenburg lace in the mix, with a variety of silhouettes that all looked easy to wear.

Anna Sui

As far as we've come with modern and even futuristic inspirations, there's always room for nostalgia. Anna Sui went back to the 1940s — via the 1970s, the era when she fell in love with vintage. Citing illustrator Antonio Lopez as inspiration — he came to prominence in '70s Paris — Sui's looks were topped off with delightful headwear. Whimsical prints, oodles of accessories and ankle socks worn with wedge sandals added to the playful tone of this cheery collection. Toronto's Alice Practice of the band Crystal Castles approved of the vintage vibe. “After all, we've got the best vintage shopping right at home, in Toronto!” she said.

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren brought back The Great Gatsby with his 1920s nod to romance and the luxe life. From his pinstripe tailored cream suits and straw cloche hats to the pale pastel slinky satin evening gowns — many teamed with matching marabou boas — Lauren's airy take on the season seemed like a familiar, gentle relief after the week's storm of mixed messages. Judging from Lauren's show — a style harbinger of the trends bound to arise when Baz Luhrmann's 3-D remake of The Great Gatsby premieres next year — it also connects with great commercial potential.

That, for better or worse, is at the crux of fashion's quandary. With an uncertain economy and more labels than ever vying for customer attention, just which designer dreams will resonate with us next spring is anybody's guess. One thing's for certain, though: There won't be a lack of options. Hopefully, the cacophony of choices will not only encourage women to become better editors, but inspire designers to stick to their guns, and stay true to their mantras in an increasingly noisy arena.